
Denim jeans
Jeans are
pants, or
trousers, made from
denim. Mainly designed for work, they became popular among
teenagers starting in the 1950s. Historic brands include
Levi's,
Lee and
Wrangler.
Jeans are now a very popular form of
casual dress around the world, and have been so for decades. They come in many styles and colors; however, "blue jeans" are particularly identified with
American culture, especially the
American Old West. The American population spent more than $14 billion on jeans in 2004.
Trousers made from
corduroy or
canvas are sometimes incorrectly called jeans. However, traditionally the word "jeans" referred exclusively to trousers made out of denim.
History
The word "jeans" comes from the French phrase
bleu de Gênes, literally the
blue of Genoa. Jeans fabric, or
denim, originated independently in two places: the French town of
Nîmes, which 'denim' owes its name to; and in
India, where trousers made of denim material were worn by the sailors of
Dhunga, which came to be known as
dungarees.
At around the same time, denim trousers were made in
Chieri, a town near
Turin (
Italy), during the
Renaissance, and were popularised in the 16th century. These trousers were sold through the harbour of
Genoa, which was the capital of the independent
Republic of Genoa which was a naval power.
Early examples of these trousers were made for the
Genoese Navy, which required all-purpose pants for its sailors. They required pants that could be worn wet or dry, the legs of which could easily be rolled up to wear while swabbing the deck. These jeans were laundered by dragging them in large mesh nets behind the ship, and the exposure to sea water and sun would gradually bleach them to white. They were especially worn by Genoan sailors and stevedores who worked in
France.
Dyeing
Traditionally, jeans are dyed to a blue color using
indigo dye. Approximately 20 million tons of indigo are produced annually for this purpose, though only a few grams of the dye are required for each pair of trousers.
[Elmar Steingruber “Indigo and Indigo Colorants” Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2004, Wiley-VCH, Weinheim. ]Riveted jeans
A
German-Jewish dry goods merchant
Levi Strauss was selling blue jeans under the "Levi's" name to the mining communities of
California in the 1850s. One of Strauss's customers was
Jacob Davis, a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co
wholesale house. After one of Davis's customers kept purchasing cloth to reinforce torn pants, he had an idea to use
copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the top of the button fly. Davis did not have the required money to purchase a
patent, so he wrote to Strauss suggesting that they both go into business together. After Strauss accepted Davis's offer, the two men received , for an "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings," on
May 20,
1873.
In 1885 jeans could be purchased in the US for $1.50 (approximately $34 in 2007). Today, an equivalent pair of jeans can be purchased for around $50-80, but more stylish pairs can cost much more. Many pairs of jeans are currently available for much less.
In popular culture
thumb|right|Copper rivets for reinforcing pockets are a characteristic feature of blue jeans.
thumb|right|The blue denim fabric of jeansInitially, blue jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by
workers, especially in the factories during
World War II. During this period, men's jeans had the zipper down the front, whereas women's jeans had the zipper down the right side. By the 1960s, both men's and women's jeans had the
zipper down the front.
Boot-cut jeans became part of the official working uniform of the
United States Navy in the 20th century prior to being replaced by the coveralls and utilities uniform, most likely inspired by their usage by European sailors in the past. The reason being was to prevent other more traditional uniforms from becoming soiled or torn in the ship's rugged working environment and thus leaving them for wear during ceremonial occasions.
After
James Dean popularized them in the movie,
Rebel Without a Cause, wearing blue jeans by
teenagers and
young adults became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. Because of this, they were sometimes banned in theaters, restaurants and schools.
During the 1960s the wearing of blue jeans became more acceptable. By the 1970s had become a general fashion in the United States, at least for informal wear.
Notably, in the mid-1970s the
denim and
textiles
industry was revolutionized by the introduction of the
stone-washing technique by GWG (
Great Western Garment Co.). Entrepreneur, importer, and noted
eccentric Donald Freeland of
Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method, which helped to bring
denim to a larger and more versatile market.
Denim suddenly became an attractive product for all age groups and Freeland became one of the most important innovators in the history of denim and denim products. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average North American owning seven pairs
.
As imported American products, jeans were somewhat expensive, especially in the case of the
Soviet Union which restricted hard currency imports. In Spain they are known as
vaqueros or "cowboys," in
Danish cowboybukser meaning "cowboy pants" and in
Chinese niuzaiku (
SC: 牛仔裤,
TC: 牛仔褲), literally, "cowboy pants" (trousers), indicating their association with the
American West, cowboy culture, and outdoors work. Similarly, the
Hungarian name for jeans is "farmernadrág", meaning "farmer-trousers".
Jeans can be worn very loose in a manner that completely conceals the shape of the wearer's lower body, or they can be snugly fitting and accentuate the body. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of bib overalls without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss denominated its flagship product "waist overalls" rather than "jeans".
Blue jean insulation
Recycled blue jean is becoming a popular insulation material (sometimes called
Cotton Batt insulation) used in the construction of houses. Due to its low relative synthetic chemical composition and because it is made of recycled materials, it is gaining prominence in
green building circles. Like conventional insulation, it moderates heat transfer and reduces sound transfer between floors or rooms. Blue Jean insulation has an
R-Value of 13 to 19 (for 3.5 and 5.5 inch batts, respectively) making it a preferable insulator to typical fiberglass batts even without taking into account the environmental considerations.
Fits
Fits of jeans are determined by current styles, sex, and by the manufacturer. Here are some of the fits produced for jeans:
Jeans come in many styles and fits based on the manufacturer. The styles popular of young adults include yellow and white fades to look as if they have been worn down and been worked in and
skinny jeans worn with flats or
Sperry Top-Siders in in a wide range of colors from red and purple to more traditional black and various shades of blue. Some brands even sell vintage looks where the legs are pre-scratched and torn before use.
Rises in jeans (the distance from the crotch to the waistband) range from high-waisted to superlow-rise (Low rise can be called Low Riders). Jeans for men usually have a longer rise and zipper, whereas women have a shorter rise and zipper, although exceptions do exist and this is largely a function of current trends. In decades past, when high-waisted jeans were popular, it was often the women's that featured a longer rise.
Quotes about jeans
"I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes." –
Yves Saint-Laurent See also