thumb|Geology of the South East, Chalk is light green (6)thumb|The Wealden Anticline.The
South Downs is one of the four areas of
chalk downland in southern
England. They extend from the eastern side of
Hampshire through
Sussex, culminating in the cliffs at
Beachy Head. Two areas of the Downs have been designated
Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB); there are many
Sites of Special Scientific Interest; and much of the Downs will be included in the future
South Downs National Park[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/7973417.stm].
The area is relatively unpopulated, although along its southern periphery there is an almost uninterrupted ribbon of seaside towns: it is extremely popular with walkers, having one principal
long distance footpath, the
South Downs Way, and many interconnecting ones. There are three principal gaps in the upland through which rivers flow; and there are also many
dry valleys along its length.
The South Downs have a long history; there are archaeological remains from
Neolithic times. Until the middle of the 20th century,
sheep-rearing was the main occupation of those living on the Downs.
Etymology
Downs is from
Old English dun meaning hill or hill fort.
Geology
The South Downs are the southern remnant of the Wealden dome which itself was laid down sixty million years ago as a
shallow sea: the
rock is composed of the microscopic skeletons of
plankton which lived in the sea, hence its colour. The rock has many
fossils, and bands of
flint occur throughout the formation.
Erosion has removed the central part of the dome, leaving the South Downs as the outer southern uplands, the
North Downs being its counterpart, as shown on the diagram. The harder rock, and the highest remaining part of the dome, is the
Weald.
The chalk, being porous, allows water to soak through; as a result there are many
winterbournes along the northern edge.
Geography
The South Downs extend about 70 miles (112 km) from west to east, and seven miles (11.2 km) wide, north to south. Both the North and South Downs come together at the
Wessex Downs, just inside the Hampshire border at the
River Meon valley. The eastern end, where it reaches the coast between
Seaford and Beachy Head, produces the spectacular scenery of the
Seven Sisters, the undulating
cliffs which are the remnants of dry valleys being eroded by the sea.
There are four river valleys which cut through the Downs: from west to east they are the
Rivers Arun,
Adur,
Ouse and
Cuckmere. Chalk
acquifers and winterbourne streams supply much of the water required by the surrounding settlements.
Dew ponds are a characteristic feature on the hillside: artificial ponds for watering livestock.
The highest point on the South Downs is
Butser Hill, just south of
Petersfield, Hampshire. At 270
m (886
ft) high, it qualifies as one of
England's
Marilyns. A list of those points on the South Downs above 700ft (213m) follows, in a west to east direction:
History
Archaeological evidence has revealed that the Downs have been inhabited and utilised for thousands of years.
Neolithic flint mines and settlements;
Bronze Age burial mounds; and
Iron Age forts are all in evidence..
It has been estimated that the tree cover of the downs was cleared some 2500 years ago, and the present closely-grazed turf is the result of continual
grazing by sheep.
Special areas
Two areas of the Downs are designated AONB:
East Hampshire and
Sussex Downs AONBs.
The proposal to set up the
South Downs National Park first received governmental support in 1999. After a public enquiry between 2003-2005, and various legal objections, the enquiry re-opened in February 2008. On the 31st March 2009, it was announced that the South Downs would become a national park, after 60 years on the shortlist.
Among the National Nature Reserves (NNR) is
Kingley Vale NNR, near
Chichester.
Tourism, leisure and sport
In 1923 the Society of Sussex Downsmen (now the South Downs Society) was formed with the aim of protecting the area's unique landscape.
The South Downs is a popular area for ramblers with a network of over of well-managed, well-signed and easily accessible trails. The principal bridleway, and longest of them, is the
South Downs Way. . The
Monarch's Way, having originated at
Worcester, crosses the South Downs and ends at
Shoreham-by-Sea.
Sports undertaken on the Downs include
paragliding,
mountain-biking,
horse riding and
walking.
Landmarks
Two of the landmarks on the Downs are the
Long Man of Wilmington, a chalk carved figure, and
Clayton Windmills. There is also a
war memorial,
The Chattri, dedicated to
Indian soldiers who died in the
Brighton area, having been brought there for treatment after being injured fighting on the
Western Front in the
First World War.
South Downs in literature
Rudyard Kipling who lived at
Rottingdean described the South Downs as "Our blunt, bow-headed whale-backed Downs". Writing in 1920 in his poem
The South Country, poet
Hilaire Belloc describes the South Downs as "the great hills of the South Country". In
On The South Coast, poet
Algernon Swinburne describes the South Downs as "the green smooth-swelling unending downs".
The naturalist-writer
William Henry Hudson wrote that "during the whole 53-three mile length from Beachy Head to Harting the ground never rises above a height of 850 feet, but we feel on top of the world".
Poet
Francis William Bourdillon also wrote a poem "On the South Downs". The South Downs have been home to several writers including
Jane Austen who lived at
Chawton on the edge of the Downs in Hampshire. The
Bloomsbury Group often visited
Monk's House in
Rodmell, the home of
Virginia Woolf. Alfred,
Lord Tennyson had a second home at Aldworth on the edge of the Downs at
Blackdown. Geologically part of the
Weald, Blackdown lies close to the chalk downland and is part of the South Downs National Park.
Suggested reading
Roundabout to Canterbury Charles S. Brooks 1926 copyright
Gallery