McCall's was a monthly
American women's
magazine that enjoyed great popularity through much of the 20th century, peaking at a readership of 8.4 million in the early 1960s. It was established as a small-format magazine called
The Queen in 1873. In 1897 it was renamed
McCall's Magazine - The Queen of Fashion (later shortened to
McCall's) and subsequently grew in size to become a large-format glossy. It was one of the "
Seven Sisters" group of women's service magazines.
McCall's published fiction by such such well-known authors as
Ray Bradbury,
Gelett Burgess,
Willa Cather,
Jack Finney,
F. Scott Fitzgerald,
Barbara Garson,
John Steinbeck,
Tim O'Brien,
Anne Tyler and
Kurt Vonnegut.
Features
From June 1949 until her death in November 1962, Eleanor Roosevelt wrote a
McCall's column, "If You Ask Me". The former First Lady gave brief answers to questions sent into the magazine.
Starting in May 1951, and lasting until at least 1995, Betsy McCall paper dolls were printed in most issues. Children could cut out the printed dolls and clothing, or for a small fee (10¢ in 1957, 25¢ in 1967) paper dolls printed on cardboard could be ordered. Betsy McCall became so popular that various sized vinyl dolls were produced by Ideal and American Character Dolls.
Another popular feature which ran for many years was the cartoon panel "It's All in the Family" by
Stan and Jan Berenstain.
Film critic
Pauline Kael worked at
McCall's from 1965 to 1966, and was reportedly fired after writing a highly unfavorable review of
The Sound of Music.
Sewing Patterns and The Queen of Fashion
In 1870 Scottish immigrant James McCall began designing and printing his own line of sewing patterns. As a means of advertising his patterns McCall founded a four page fashion journal entitled
The Queen: Illustrating McCall's Bazaar Glove-Fitting Patterns.
When McCall died in 1884 his widow became president of McCall Company, and hired Mrs. George Bladsworth as magazine editor. Mrs. Bladsworth held the position until 1891. Though still mainly a vehicle to sell McCall's sewing patterns
The Queen began to publish homemaking and handiwork information, and by 1890 had expanded to 12 pages. In 1891 the magazine name became
The Queen of Fashion, and the cost for a year's subscription was 30 cents.
In 1893 James Henry Ottley took over the McCall Company. He increased the subscription price to 50 cents a year, increased the number of pages to between 16 and 30 per issue, and began to publish articles on children's issues, health, beauty, and foreign travel. In order to reflect the magazine's expanded range of topics the name was changed to
McCall's Magazine - The Queen of Fashion in 1897. In time the name would be shortened to
McCall's.Despite the name changes, for many years information on McCall's Patterns filled an average of 20 percent of the magazine's pages.
McCall's Magazine
In 1913 the magazine was purchased by the banking firm of
White Weld & Co., which organized the
McCall Corporation under the direction of president Edward Alfred Simmons. In 1917 the price was raised to 10 cents per issue. In 1922 Harry Payne Burton became editor, and for the first time such well-known fiction writers as
Kathleen Norris,
Harold Bell Wright,
Zane Grey and
Booth Tarkington had stories published in McCall's.
In 1928, the 23 year-old associate editor Otis Wiese was promoted to editor. He believed "women were ready for more significant fiction than
Gene Stratton-Porter" and suggested that McCall's sell Burton's acquisitions of popular fiction to
Ladies Home Journal and
Woman's Home Companion. Such radical ideas caused Wiese to be fired at least six times within his first year as editor, but he was always rehired because, as he put it, "there was no one else around the place with ideas."
In 1932 Wiese changed the format to what he called Three Magazines in One. Three sections –- News and Fiction, Homemaking, Style and Beauty -- had their own cover, and each contained ads tailored to its contents. A survey was conducted that showed fiction was a major attraction for female magazine readers, and in 1937
McCall's became the first women's magazine to print a complete novel in one issue.
Pearl Harbor was attacked on December 7, 1941, and Otis Wiese immediately revamped the February 1942 issue then in preparation. A frilly valentine cover was replaced with a woman wearing an "I've Enlisted" consumer pledge button. Readers were asked to sign a pledge that stated "As a consumer, in the total defense of democracy, I will do my part to make my country ready, efficient and strong. I will buy carefully. I will take good care of the things I have. I will waste nothing." Within three weeks 150,000 readers signed the pledge and sent in a coupon printed in the magazine. During World War II all women's magazines took on a patriotic slant, but
McCall's received much positive press coverage for being the first magazine to do so
McCall's began a "Washington Newsletter" section, which provided information on rationing and conservation.
During the post-war era fiction was no longer such an important draw for readers; they wanted more articles and picture spreads. To provide lively nonfiction Wiese hired two former
Look magazine editors. Daniel Danforth Mich became editorial director, and Henry Ehrlich was named managing editor.
McCall's Three Magazines in One format was discontinued in 1950. In 1954 Wiese began to reformat
McCall's with a "Togetherness" slogan; it was announced that the magazine would no longer be just for women, but aimed at the entire family. During this time period paid circulation was 4.5 million per issue.
In 1953 financier
Norton Simon began purchasing shares of McCall Corporation, and in 1956 Simon's group of investors was in control of the corporation.
In 1958 Simon named
Arthur B. Langlie as president of the company. Otis Wiese, who had been vice president, as well as editor and publisher of
McCall's, had expected to be named president. When Langlie was named to the position Wiese and a number of staffers resigned in protest. A
Business Week article stated "The house of togetherness had come apart at the seams." Simon replaced Wiese with Herbert Mayes, who had been editor of
Good Housekeeping.
Mayes did away with the "Togetherness" slant, and came up with a new slogan, "First Magazine For Women." He introduced additional color pages, and used more fiction. In 1962 Mayes became president and CEO of McCall Corporation.
From 1962 to 1965 John Mack Carter was editor of
McCall's. Under his leadership circulation rose to 8.4 million. In 1965 Carter left to become editor of
Ladies' Home Journal. A rapid succession of editors followed Carter, including Robert Stein, James Fixx and Norman Cousins.
In 1969
Life magazine columnist
Shana Alexander was named editor. Alexander had no editing experience, and at the time of her appointment stated "I have to educate myself about women's magazines, but I think I know something about women." Alexander left in 1971.
Robert Stein was editor from 1972 to 1986. During Stein's tenure
McCalls gained the slogan / subtitle "The Magazine for Suburban Women." After Stein left the quick turnover of editors returned.
Change in Ownership
Ownership of
McCall's began to change nearly as fast as editors came and went. Norton Simon sold
McCall's to private owners in 1973. In 1986 McCall's Publishing Company was bought by Time, Inc. and Lang Communications. In 1989
McCall's was sold the New York Times Magazine Group, and in 1994 German based Gruner + Jahn announced plans to purchase
McCall's.
Change to Rosie
In 2000 entertainer Rosie O'Donnell became editorial director of
McCall's. In 2001
McCall's was renamed
Rosie. O'Donnell stated "I wanted a magazine that celebrates real women, that understands that they care about more than waistlines or the latest makeup styles or fashions, that they want to be relevant and help each other and care about the world."
Rosie ceased publication at the end of 2002. O'Donnell said in a statement "I decided I could not participate in a magazine that bears my name when I could not be assured it would reflect my vision, values and editorial direction." A highly publicized legal battle between O'Donnell and her publisher
Gruner + Jahr began in 2003. Ultimately, the judge ruled against both sides and dismissed the case. Gruner + Jahr exited the U.S. magazine business in 2005, selling its women's magazine portfolio to the
Meredith Corporation and its business magazine portfolio to Mansueto Ventures.