Deal is a
town in
Kent,
England. It lies on the
English Channel eight miles north-east of
Dover. It is a small fishing community situated between Dover and
Ramsgate. Closely associated with Deal are the villages of
Kingsdown,
Sholden and
Walmer, the latter being where
Julius Caesar first arrived in
Britain (
best guess by historians).
Deal was named as a 'limb port' of the
Cinque Ports in 1278. Due to its position on
the Downs, the town grew to become for a while the busiest
port in England; today it enjoys the reputation of being a quiet
seaside resort, its quaint streets and houses the only reminder of its fascinating history. The coast of
France is approximately twenty-five miles from the town, and is visible on clear days.
Its finest building is the
Tudor Deal Castle, commissioned by King
Henry VIII and designed with an attractive
rose floor plan.
History
Maritime history
The proximity of Deal's shoreline to the notorious
Goodwin Sands has made its coastal waters a source of both shelter and danger through the history of sea travel in British waters.
The Downs, the water between the town and the sands, provides a naturally sheltered
anchorage. This allowed the town to become a significant shipping and military port in past centuries despite the absence of a
harbour, with transit of goods and people from ship to shore conducted using smaller
tender craft. Deal was, for example, visited by
Nelson and was the first English soil on which James Cook set foot in 1771 on returning from
first voyage to Australia. The anchorage is still used today by international and regional
shipping, though on a scale far smaller than at other times in the past (some historical accounts report hundreds of ships being visible from the beach).
By the time Dickens came to Deal it had been largely forgotten how the government of 1784, under Prime Minister
William Pitt the Younger (who was staying at nearby
Walmer Castle, and was later to be appointed
Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports in 1792), ensured that the Deal boats were all set ablaze, suspecting some of the Deal
luggers of being engaged in smuggling. Pitt had awaited an opportunity that January, when the boats were all 'hoved up' on the beach on account of bad weather, to send a regiment of soldiers to smash and burn them. A naval
cutter was positioned offshore to prevent any of the boatmen escaping.
The boatmen's ancestors had the right, under charter, freely to import goods in return for their services as
Cinque Port men in providing what had been long recognised as the sole naval defence of the realm. These men continued to risk their lives and their boats, in saving the lives of shipwreck victims.
The irrepressible spirit of the Deal boatmen remained undaunted by these events throughout the
Napoleonic Wars, and they continued to assert their hard-earned right to trade.
From these activities news of the events unfolding in France would reach England quickly and regularly, with about 400 men making a living off Deal beach at that time. The war only made the boatmen’s efforts more profitable, so that afterwards the Government immediately turned a part of its naval
blockade into a coastal blockade, which lasted from 1818 to 1831.
Deal had a naval shipyard which provided Deal with much of its trade. On the site of the yard there is now a building originally used as a semaphore tower, and later used as a coastguard house, then as a
timeball tower, which it remains today, and as a museum. Besides this and the
Deal Maritime Museum, there is no museum of the town's history yet, though a campaign to start one is ongoing - Deal's history is told at
Dover Museum instead.
Royal Marines
The first home of the
Royal Marines in Kent was established at
Chatham in 1755. Because of its proximity to the continent and the fact that it possessed a thriving naval dockyard, Deal has been closely associated with the corps ever since its foundation. Records from the old Navy yard at Deal exist from 1658 and show that Marines from Chatham and Woolwich were on duty in Deal, and quartered in the town, until the Deal depot was established in 1861.
Deal Barracks has become known over its long history as the Royal Marine School of Music, the barracks at
Walmer consisting of the North, East and South (or Cavalry) barracks, and all were constructed shortly after the outbreak of the French revolution.
Part of the South barracks was used from 1815 as the quarters for the 'blockade men', drafted against a threat of local smuggling. The South barracks became a coastguard station thereafter, and this duty continued until 1840.
It was the East barracks which accommodated the School of Music, until the Royal Naval School of Music was formed at Plymouth in 1903, but which moved to Deal in 1930, replacing the original depot band formed in 1891. Thus the institution became known as the Royal Marine School of Music in 1950.
During 1940, at St. Margaret's Bay, close to Deal, the
Royal Marines Siege Regiment came into being and manned cross-channel guns for most of the remainder of the war.
On the 29th of October, A Home Security Report detailed in the RAF's Campaign Diary was made:
"Army Stations 29th October 1940
Deal: At 1640 hours three HE bombs were dropped in the barracks, the casualties being 1 Officer and 7 other ranks killed, 6 Officers and 6 other ranks wounded."
These casualties are buried in the Hamilton Road cemetery in Deal, ironically, next to the joint grave of three Luftwaffe bomber crew who died just fourteen days later when their aircraft crashed near Kingsdown.
At approximately 8.20am on the 22nd of September 1989, the Royal Marines School of Music was bombed by the
IRA, this resulted in the death of 11 bandsmen including musician Robert Simmonds and the injury of 22 other marines. The memorial garden is situated in the grounds of the old barracks where the bomb went off. This was built in remembrance of the 11 that died and was then restored after an arson attack a number of years ago. Every year the families and friends of those that died join together at the garden to pay their respects and lay flowers in a memorial service.
On the evening of
March 26,
1996, the Deal populace were privy to a special ceremony, the
Beating Retreat, coming from the South barracks, as the
Royal Marines Band Service were commanded to vacate their ancient Kent depot and move to new quarters at
Portsmouth. The Marines every year come up to the
bandstand and put on a display which attracts well over 4,000 people.
Lifeboats
Piers
230x173px|right|thumb|The 1957 Deal PierThe seafront at Deal has been adorned with three separate
piers in the town's history. The first, built in 1838, was designed by
Sir John Rennie. After its wooden structure was destroyed in an 1857 gale, it was replaced by an iron pier in 1864. A popular pleasure pier, it survived until the
Second World War, when it was struck and severely damaged by a torpedoed Dutch ship, the
Nora, in January 1940. This was not the first time the pier had been hit by shipping, with previous impacts in 1873 and 1884 necessitating extensive repairs.
The present pier, designed by Sir W. Halcrow & Partners, was opened on the 19 November 1957 by the
Duke of Edinburgh. Constructed predominantly from
concrete-clad
steel, it is 1026ft (311m) in length (a notice announces that it is the same length as the
RMS Titanic, but that ship was just 882 feet in length), and ends in a three-tiered pier-head, featuring a cafe, bar, lounge, and fishing decks. The lowest of the three tiers is underwater at all but the lowest part of the tidal range, and has become disused. The pier is a popular
sport fishing venue.
Deal's current pier is the last remaining fully-intact leisure pier in
Kent. Its structure was extensively refurbished and repaired in 1997, with work including the replacement of much of the concrete cladding on the pier's main piles. Work began in April 2008 to construct a new pier-head with a modern restaurant, with the restaurant opening in December 2008
Museums
Deal has several museums, all are related to Deal's maritime history. Both Deal Castle and
Walmer Castle are operated by English Heritage - Deal has a display on the events in the reign of Henry VIII that led to the invasion threat which caused its construction, along with some material on its subsequent history, whereas displays at Walmer concentrate on Walmer's post-Tudor role as the Lord Warden's residence. There is also a ruin of the third Tudor castle,
Sandown Castle, in North Deal. The Deal Maritime and Local History Museum has exhibits of boats, smuggler
galleys and
model naval ships It also contains extensive histories of the lifeboats as well as local parish registers. The
Timeball Tower Museum, on the other hand, focuses on the importance of timekeeping for ships, and the role the building it occupies played.
Notable references
During the 19th century,
Charles Dickens was to comment on the character of the East Kent boatmen, and on one of his visits to Deal (later used for an episode in
Bleak House) he wrote:
Earlier descriptions of Deal were much less favourable, with the town notorious in the 17th century as a location for smugglers.
Daniel Defoe wrote of the town:
Diarist
Samuel Pepys recorded several visits to the town, being moved on 30 April 1660 to describe it as "pitiful".
William Cobbett passing through in September 1823 noted in his book
Rural Rides:
In fiction
thumb|right|The seafront, with the time ball tower left of centreDickens, who had visited the town (see
Notable References to Deal), had Richard Carstone garrisoned here in chapter XLV of
Bleak House, so that Woodcourt and Esther's paths can cross when Woodcourt's ship happens to anchor in the Downs at the same time as Esther and Ada are visiting Richard:
In
Jane Austen's
Persuasion, chapter 8, the town is mentioned as the only place where Admiral Croft's wife Sophia Croft was ever ill, as it was the only place she was ever separated from him, whilst he was patrolling the
North Sea:
- A renamed Deal served as the setting for the William Horwood book, The Boy With No Shoes (ISBN 0-7553-1318-6). It is also the setting for part of his earlier novel The Stonor Eagles.
- It is also the (renamed) setting of Frances Fyfield's crime novel Undercurrents (ISBN 0-7515-3028-X).
- It is also the setting for David Donachie's book A Hanging Matter (ISBN 0-330-32862-X) , a murder and nautical mystery.
- North & South Deal were swapped round in the semi-autobiographical novel The Pier by Rayner Heppenstall.
- Deal is mentioned as the destination for a Marine recruit from Edinburgh in the novel "Guns of Evening" by Ronald Bassett. "What's Deal?" the recruit replies having never heard of it.
Local media
Newspapers
Deal has two paid for newspapers, the
Deal and Sandwich Express (published by Kent Regional News and Media) and the
East Kent Mercury (published by the
KM Group. Free newspapers for the town include the
Dover Extra, part of the KM Group; and
yourdeal, part of
KOS Media.
Radio
The local radio station for Deal is
KMFM Shepway and White Cliffs Country. Deal is also served by the county-wide stations
Heart,
Gold and
BBC Radio Kent.
Twin towns
Notable residents
Comedian
Norman Wisdom, writer
Simon Raven and actors
William Hartnell,
Hywel Bennett and
Charles Hawtrey all lived in Deal. Notable people born in the town include
James Arbuthnot,
John Hulke,
Elizabeth Carter,
Clive Metcalfe, and
John Stanton Fleming Morrison